We were supposed to leave our hotel at 3pm to catch our flight back to Singapore. Because we had a late, big breakfast, we still weren’t hungry by 2pm. However, I was determined to squeeze in one more meal before leaving Penang!

Plate of fried fritters (3 pieces for RM2.20) & red bean soup, RM1.00

The day before, based on CK Lam’s recommendation, we went to an alley along Magazine Road. It’s at the traffic light junction opposite Trader’s Hotel. However, it was already evening, and the stalls had already closed. This time, we were lucky. All the stalls were open!

Lor bak, prawn fritter, and spring roll

The first stall sells fried fritters and dessert soups. We ordered a plate of lor bak 卤肉 (meat roll), spring roll, and prawn fritter. All were delicious, much nicer than the one we had at Lorong Selamat! The red bean soup was also lovely.

Chee cheong fun 猪肠粉 (steamed rice roll)

The second stall sells chee cheong fun, curry chee cheong fun, and curry mee. We didn’t try the curry chee cheong fun.

If you look closely, there’s three sauces above: hae ko, dark sweet sauce, and chilli sauce. Penang is the home of the best hae ko 虾膏 (fermented prawn paste), and it’s used liberally in many dishes here, from rojak to assam laksa to chee cheong fun.

Penang curry mee (noodles)

Finally, my first taste of Penang curry mee! Underneath the toppings is yellow Hokkien noodles. I was surprised that the curry gravy is “white”. How spicy you want it to be depends on the amount of sambal chilli (in the spoon) you stir and mix into the gravy.

This was delicious! It’s actually similar to Singapore laksa, but there’s no dried shrimp in the curry gravy, and the herbs and spices come through as being more subtle. However, the curry gravy is very smooth and fragrant. The flavors are beautifully balanced, and the toppings are fresh and tasty.

Underneath the toppings is yellow Hokkien noodles. The toppings include coagulated pig blood (the maroon cube on the left of the bowl). FYI, coagulated pig blood is tasteless, with a texture similar to tofu. It used to be available in Singapore, but not anymore. I didn’t eat it, but Rick did. He’s a more adventurous eater than I am!

Delicious food in the most unlikely place.

Although some people might question the hygiene of street food, this was never an issue with us throughout our entire time in Penang. Rick ate street food every day for a week in Penang, and I for four days, and we were fine.

With a heavy heart, I unwillingly bade goodbye to the beautiful island of Penang. Besides delicious food and charming historical sights, what made this trip so unforgettable was the warm and helpful locals who made us feel so welcome. We definitely want to return to Penang some day.

Also read:
Penang Day 1 – Supper from street stalls along Lorong Baru (New Lane)
Penang Day 2 – Hotel breakfast, Toh Soon Cafe, and tang yuen for supper
Penang Day 3 – Char koay kak
Penang Day 3 – Lunch at Lorong Selamat
Penang Day 3 – The Great Penang Cendol Face-off!
Last day in Penang: Dimsum at De Tai Tong Cafe

Thanks to CK Lam’s recommendation, we had a fabulous meal at De Tai Tong Cafe in Cintra Street, which is a short walk from Traders Hotel where we stayed.

Dimsum breakfast

De Tai Tong looks like an established dimsum place in Penang. There was another joint selling similar dimsum down the road, but that one was rather empty, whereas Tai Tong was packed!

The staff said it’s self-service on Sunday. So after getting a table, I grabbed a tray and went to the kitchen section to pick the dishes. There were so many items to choose from! So, I just grabbed the first few items I saw.

Yummy spread!

Rick and I were surprised by how delicious EVERYTHING was! Even though the fried items were pre-cooked, they were warm and crispy. The siew mai was fat and juicy, stuffed full of sweet crunchy prawn and bouncy pork. Every item tasted fresh and naturally flavorsome.

I thought we’d go for seconds. But by the end of the first round, we were already quite full, because the dimsum items here are jumbo sized! They’re double the size of those served in finer dining joints!

Cheong fun (steamed rice flour rolls) with prawn

Then, one of the servers came around bearing a tray of congee and freshly steamed cheong fun. We said no thanks, but apparently, this motherly lady wouldn’t take no for an answer. “Are you sure you don’t want? They’re very good, you must try!”

Ok, Auntie, if you insist.

Pork & century egg congee

If we ever return to Penang, we must go back to thank this auntie for her persistence. This was one of the best congee we’ve ever had.

It’s been eons since we had old-school dimsum like this. Teahouse, or 茶楼, dimsum is, of course, in a different league from dimsum served in fine dining restaurants. It’s not as dainty in presentation nor as refined in taste, but if done well, teahouse dimsum can be just as satisfying.

Sadly, it’s hard to find quality teahouse dimsum in Singapore now; for decent dimsum, one has to go to finer dining establishments. I really miss this kind of experience – enjoying rustic and hearty dimsum in a casual, unpretentious setting.

Old school dimsum trolley

Don’t you miss the thrill of peering into dimsum trolley shelves to pick out your favorite items? Sure, we were always tempted to order more than we wanted/needed, but that’s what made dimsum so fun. Oh, the nostalgia!

Full house

Penang was so memorable, not just for its historical sights and amazing food, but also the warm and friendly folks. Can you spot someone making the peace “V” sign?

The front facade

I don’t have the price breakdown, and can’t remember the exact bill amount, but I remember this meal cost around S$12. This works out to…S$6 each person.  That’s shockingly cheap by Singapore standards!

Also read:
Penang Day 1 – Supper from street stalls along Lorong Baru (New Lane)
Penang Day 2 – Hotel breakfast, Toh Soon Cafe, and tang yuen for supper
Penang Day 3 – Char koay kak
Penang Day 3 – Lunch at Lorong Selamat
Penang Day 3 – The Great Penang Cendol Face-off!

Penang Road's famous Teochew cendol!

Folks, this is THE most famous cendol stall in Penang! Many proclaim it to be the best on the island. Just remember, it’s located in Penang Road in Penang!

Technically, it’s in Keng Kwee Street off Penang Road. But no worries, just ask and the friendly locals will point you to the right direction!

Interestingly, directly opposite the No.1 stall is another cendol stall. They claim to be just as good as the original!

So how will the clueless out-of-towner know which is which? Easy!

The original stall…

The original...

…is perpetually crowded…

...and the imposter.

…while its rival has a trickling stream of customers, like these two motorcyclists who find it more convenient to just grab and go at the less crowded stall.

Some Penangites say that the original stall’s standard has dropped due to ridiculously good business. Like any self-respecting foodie, I did a taste-test of the two!

*drumroll* Without further ado, let the Great Penang Cendol Face-Off begin!

Cendol from the famous stall, RM1.70

The first slurp had me gushing, “Mmm…what kind of gula melaka did they use? It’s out of this world!” Now I know why people swoon over Penang cendol. It’s the top-grade gula melaka they use that make it so special. So rich, smooth, and complex!

Cendol from the rival stall, RM1.70

The rival’s cendol is also excellent, but if you compare closely, they’re slightly different. Let’s do a detailed analysis.

The cendol from both stalls are similarly made out of four main elements: gula melaka, fresh coconut milk, green bean noodles, and red bean.

Gula melaka:
Both stalls use top-grade gula melaka.

Coconut milk:
Both stalls use fresh coconut milk. Very fragrant and smooth. However, Rival Stall’s coconut milk is more lemak (creamy); Original Stall’s is more diluted.

If you like your cendol more lemak, go for Rival Stall. But because Original Stall’s coconut milk is less overwhelming, you can taste the more of that fabulous gula melaka.

Green bean noodles:
Original Stall’s noodles are softer and melt-in-the-mouth. Rival Stall’s noodles are fatter and firmer, plus they give a bigger portion.

Red beans:
Although cooked till fragrant and powdery, Original Stall gives too little of the beans. Rival Stall boasts better beans. Generous amount of big, fat red beans and kidney beans. They retain their shape, but give way to sweet, powdery goodness!

Conclusion:
If you like your cendol rich with coconut milk with lots of green pea noodles and big, fat beans, head to Rival Stall.

Personally, I prefer the Original Stall. For Rival Stall, at first the richness of the coconut milk was nice, but after a while, it got rather jelak (cloying). I prefer Original Stall’s coconut milk-gula melaka ratio, because you get the fragrance of coconut milk without overpowering the lovely notes of the gula melaka. It’s lighter and more refreshing. Plus the green pea noodles are softer and more slippery. If only they were more generous with the green pea noodles and red bean!

Also read:
Penang Day 1
Penang Day 2: Hotel breakfast, Toh Soon Cafe, and tang yuen for supper
Penang Day 3: Char koay kak
Penang Day 3: Lunch at Lorong Selamat

The famous Penang char koay teow stall in Lorong Selamat.

It’s already Day 3, but I’d yet to try the most acclaimed Penang dishes like assam laksa and char koay teow! Well, this was going to be THE day! Our friendly taxi driver “uncle” took us to Lorong Selamat for the famous char koay teow in front of Cafe Heng Huat. Apparently, Lorong Selamat is one of the popular food streets in Penang. There are several roadside stalls and coffee shops that operate there in the day.

The larger-than-life char koay teow lady in her signature red beret and goggles.

One look, and I knew this is a master at work. Look closely! Deep in concentration, the char koay teow lady silently channels all her energy. Beneath the heavy cast-iron wok are roaring flames fueled by burning charcoal. With her spatula as a natural extension of her arm, she sears and swishes the rice noodles with a mastery that leaves you in awe!

Because there are also many other orders, and only small batches are cooked each time to ensure quality, we were told that it was at least a 20-minute wait. So we ordered food from other stalls outside. Yes, you’re allowed to order from the roadside stalls and bring the food into Cafe Heng Huat.

Laksa stall

Our taxi uncle told us this assam laksa is also very good.

Penang assam laksa, RM4.00 ≈ S$1.65

Doesn’t look very attractive, right?

Mix it all up!

But looks are deceiving! Penang assam laksa is totally different from Singapore laksa. There’s no coconut milk involved.

First, the broth is made by simmering mackerel for an hour until it disintegrates and creates a rich stock. Then, tamarind is added for that tangy taste. The end result is a sweet, tangy, and spicy broth!

This was my first authentic Penang laksa, so I’ve no benchmark to compare. But I found the broth sufficiently rich and thick with fish, and the overall flavours very pleasing! Hae ko 虾膏 (prawn paste), fresh pineapple, cucumber, and mint leaves make it even more appetizing. The thick rice noodles are cooked till soft and swollen, which kinda reminds me of udon.

Lorbak stall

We also ordered lor bak. Penang lor bak = Singapore ngoh hiang. Usually, lor bak is sold alongside fried spring rolls and prawn fritters.

Mixed platter, RM7.00 ≈ S$2.90

Penang lor bak is slightly different from our ngoh hiang. It’s braised pork which is chopped then rolled in beancurd skin and deep-fried. Sliced lor bak is served with braising sauce and chilli dip. I actually prefer lor bak cos there’s no 5-spice powder, unlike in ngoh hiang. Texturally, it’s also more meaty.

For this stall, I thought the items we tried were so-so only. Besides lor bak, there’s also fish (the yellow strips), prawn fritter (behind the fish), beancurd, and braised egg.

Char koay teow, RM8.50 ≈ S$3.50

Finally, after an agonizing 30-minute wait, this was our reward. We ordered the most expensive version, which comes with 5 unimaginably sweet, crunchy and juicy prawns! The prawns are seared till just cooked. Absolutely perfect timing! The cockles are just as fresh and succulent.

As for the koay teow, man, it had me weeping tears of joy. Fiery and smoking hot, it’s as if the noodles had come alive! Each chopstickful of koay teow was breathing with smouldering steam. And the charred noodles were slick but not oily. I’ve never eaten char koay teow with so much character!

The char koay teow is pricey by local standards, but I think it’s absolutely worth it!

Also read:
Penang Day 1
Penang Day 2: Hotel breakfast, Toh Soon Cafe, and tang yuen for supper
Penang Day 3: Char koay kak

Char koay kak, RM2.30 ≈ S$0.95

So here’s what really good char koay kak tastes like! The sad, soggy version I had on the first night is nothing like the real deal!

This was an unexpected find. Ricky and I were walking back to Traders Hotel after breakfast at Toh Soon Cafe. From Campbell Street (Lebuh Campbell), we walked down Cintra Street (Lebuh Cintra). When we reached Kimberley Street (perpendicular to Cintra St.), I spotted two pushcarts selling food.

The friendly auntie and her helper.

My foodie radar told me we were on to something great, so I insisted on checking them out! One was making ban chien koay 慢煎糕, the other was a lady frying char koay kak with gusto! Luckily I only had kaya bread and milk tea earlier. Breakfast Part 2, here I come!

Char koay kak is the Penang counterpart of Singapore’s chai tow kway 菜头粿 (fried radish cake). Actually, our chai tow kway is a farce, ‘cos there’s no chai tow (radish) in the kway (cake), only seasoning and MSG. In Penang, they simply call it char koay kak 炒粿角 (fried rice cake chunks).

One's frying the koay, the other's cutting fresh pieces into the wok, which is fired by charcoal and wood.

Because the taxi we hired was waiting to pick us up at the hotel, we packed our char koay kak to go. The steamed rice cakes are fried with chai po 菜脯, beansprout, Chinese chives, garlic, egg, and dark soy sauce.

The seasoning isn’t as thick and sweet as the Singapore “black” chai tow kway. The taste is more savoury and just mildly sweet. But it’s delicious in its own style, and the crunchy beansprouts are so refreshing! There’s plenty of wok hei too! Gosh, it’s really scrumptious! I’m now drooling at the memory…

I wonder if the Singapore XO-sauce fried radish cake with beansprout was inspired by Penang char koay kak?

Also read: Penang Day 1, Penang Day 2

The good: nasi lemak with chicken curry; beehoon goreng. Not so good: sausage, baked beans, hashbrown.

So I sauntered cheerily into the executive breakfast lounge, only to be stunned that Michael Jackson had suddenly died of a heart attack. I’m not a big Michael Jackson fan, but still, I admire him for his incredible talent and the musical legacy that he leaves behind. RIP, Michael Jackson. You’ll forever be the King of Pop.

Nice banana cake and Danish pastry.

Watching the BBC News on TV, I didn’t pay much attention to my breakfast. Well, not that it deserves much attention, anyway. Breakfast was included in the room rate.

That tall building is UMNO's headquarters in Penang.

Actually, we got a pretty good deal on Wotif. Our room at Sunway Hotel is showing its age; the fixtures and furnishings are rather worn. But the room is clean and spacious, and for the E-rooms, they come with unlimited free broadband and breakfast in the executive lounge where you get a nice view from the 14th floor. It’s conveniently located near the heritage sites of Georgetown, and just outside the hotel (New Lane/Lorong Baru) is plenty of cheap street food at night.

Another view from the 14th floor Executive Lounge of Sunway Hotel, Georgetown.

Hainanese coffee & steamed kaya bread

Ricky still had a full day of work on Friday, so I went exploring Georgetown without him. Went to the famous Toh Soon Café at Campbell Street, but their famous roti bakar (coal grilled-bread) was unavailable. Boo hoo! But the Hainanese coffee is fabulous. Yay!

Then, visited the nearby Chowrasta Market and bought some local snacks.

Returned to Sunway to check out, then checked into Traders Hotel, just down the road. It’s even more conveniently located, next to KOMTAR and Prangin Mall. The room is smaller, but newer and more posh than Sunway. Weekend rates at Trader’s Hotel are cheaper than weekday rates, and you can get a good deal by booking directly on Trader’s website at least two weeks before your arrival date.

After 4 days of street food, Rick was quite sick of it, so we had dinner at Sushi King, Prangin Mall. The quality is worse than some of the Jap food served in S’pore food courts. Yup, we should just have stuck to street food.

On the way back, we caught a whiff of something warm, gingery and sweet. What do you know, there’s a pushcart selling hot tang yuan 汤圆 along Magazine Road, just opposite our hotel!

Piping hot tang yuan, made only when you order!

I notice that most of the street stalls in Penang don’t display their business name. It’s only later that I found this link which identifies this stall as Hoe Hock Tien Tang Yen.

Peanut, sesame, and plain rice dumplings in cane sugar-sweetened soup, RM3.00 ≈ S$1.25

For RM3.00, you get several small plain rice dumplings, and two big dumplings, one stuffed with crushed peanut, and the other, with crushed sesame.

Peanut dumpling and brown sugar soup

You can choose between cane sugar-sweetened or brown sugar-sweetened soup. Both are cooked with fragrant pandan leaves and ginger. I prefer the brown sugar version, but both are just as satisfying. The ginger taste isn’t overwhelming, and the sweetness level is just right. Very warm and comforting!

It’s lucky we spotted this stall, ‘cos it didn’t open for business the following night, which was our final night in Penang.

Also read: Penang Day 1

I wasn’t very hungry either, after all that free food and plane meal, but I just couldn’t resist the bustling street stalls just outside the hotel entrance. Real street food! So exciting! So I went to tar-pow some supper back to our hotel room.

Oyster omelette , RM7.00 ≈ S$2.90

Very fresh plump oysters, with no fishy smell. But unlike the Singaporean version, this one was rather “wet”. Our or-jian (oyster omelette) is more like an crispy omelette, with the starchy bits. This one is more like scrambled eggs, with a lot of sauce. But still, it pretty much hit the spot, after such a disastrous day of eating.

Char koay kark with seafood, RM4.00 ≈ S$1.70

This is pretty much like our chai tow kway, except the rice flour cakes are called koay kark, and are plain, with no chai tow (radish). The usual version is fried with egg and beansprout. For another RM2.00, you can opt to have seafood, which turned out to be just two measly prawns!

New Lane Eng Kee

Again, like the oyster omelette, the char koay kark was very “wet”. Both are from the same stall. I wasn’t impressed with the char koay kark. And although cheap after converting to SIN$, portions were very small, and I thought it was expensive by local (Malaysian) standards.

Cold dessert soup, RM2.00 ≈ S$0.80

However, dessert was really good! At first I thought it was cheng tng, but it’s a combo of cooked lotus nut, red bean, gingko nut, and dried longan. The lotus nuts and red bean were so powdery, and the gingko nut was cooked till candied just like Mom does! You can tell everything was cooked from scratch, the good ol’ fashioned way.

Also, it wasn’t too sweet. Very healthy and refreshing. You can opt to have it hot or cold. I’ll be looking out for this again!

As at June 26, 2009, conversion rate is approximately 1 Malaysian ringgit to 0.412 Singapore dollar.

Chicken char siew and wonton noodles

To be fair, it wasn’t that bad. It’s just that I wasn’t hungry. But the other choice — lamb stew with rice — smelled and looked so much more tantalizing! So far, I’ve found that rice rather than noodles is the better bet for airline food, unless it’s cold noodles.

The dessert — hazelnut cappucino cake — sounded much better than it promised. Where’s the taste of cappucino?

Pre-departure, business class passengers could access the SATS Premier Lounge for comfy seats, free broadband, food and drinks. There were plenty of beverages: soda, juices, teas, expresso, mocha, cappucino, etc. For food, there’s hot food, chips, pastries, fruit, and sandwiches. Sounds good, but the quality of the food is far from premier!

Beehoon goreng and finger cucumber sandwich.

Croissant, apple pie, & mango pudding

Chicken rice, spiced pea & carrot, and chilli-tomato Dory fish

Seriously, I’ve had economy class plane food that’s much better. I think that pretty much sums up everything!