Lor mee is a tricky dish to master. In the wrong hands, it can turn out to be a horrible, icky mess of goo. That was my memory of lor mee since childhood, so, for most of my life, I’ve avoided it. Besides, who needs lor mee when there’s char kway teow?
A few years ago, I took the plunge and tried Soon Heng’s lor mee. What a revelation! Who knew lor mee could taste this good? Well, it still isn’t on the top of my list for hawker food, but at least another door has opened.
Soon Heng has had a faithful following for over 20 years, but their business got even better after being featured on TV. Oh no, I thought, it’s all downhill from here! From personal experience, food quality drops because the owners cannot cope or they get too cocky with fame.
The other day, I thought I’d revisit Soon Heng. Here’s the lowdown:
The good: The best part of the lor mee is the tasty fried ngoh hiang and fish (shark!) fritters. I don’t see why they can’t use other fish, though the shark flesh was firmer and was nice to chew on. I also liked the kickass chilli sauce and flavorful gravy. It’s nice to see that the lady boss takes pains to arrange the toppings immaculately.
The bad: Portion is skimpy. This is the upsized S$3.00 version, yet very little noodles, and only one slice of braised pork!
Conclusion: Still tastes good. Not the best on the island but one of the better ones. The penny-conscious might want to spend their 3 bucks on other more tummy-filling options.
Soon Heng Food Delights
Blk 6 Tanjong Pagar Road
Tanjong Pagar Market & Food Centre